Rates
30-minute lesson: $30.00
60-minute lesson: $50.00
Tuition for the following month is due at the final lesson of the current month. Lessons are offered weekly, with exceptions for holidays or travel.
Materials
Instrument
A student must have an instrument in good, working condition. Your current skill level and goals will determine what instrument is best for you. The guidelines below are intended to be general, certainly not exhaustive, and can be flexible when accounting for financial situation and long-term goals.
Beginner
- Often called student flutes
- Typically 5th-9th grade
- Gemeinhardt, Armstrong, Yamaha, Selmer, etc.
- $500-$1,500
- Nickel or silver-plated flute
- Factory-made
Intermediate
- Often called performance, intermediate, or step-up flutes
- Typically 9th-12th grade
- Miyazawa, Muramatsu, Sankyo, Trevor James, Yamaha, Powell, Brannen, Altus, Haynes, Di Zhao, etc.
- $1,500-$5,000
- Silver-plated body, solid silver head joint
- Factory- or handmade
Advanced
- Often called professional flutes
- Typically collegiate and beyond
- Powell, Brannen, Haynes, Burkart, etc.
- $5,000+
- Solid silver flute, more advanced models add gold and even platinum
- Handmade
Some additional things to consider is that as the flute model gets more advanced, certain “bells and whistles” may be added. Some options are listed below with descriptions.
- In-line or offset G: The G key is the key that the third finger on the left hand presses down. An offset G is slightly lower on the instrument, allowing for a more natural resting position of the fingers. This depends on student preference and doesn’t affect the sound. Many younger students find the offset G more comfortable. I use an offset G on my flute.
- B foot joint: This is a standard inclusion on intermediate flutes and beyond. It adds an additional key to extend the range down by one note. While it may not seem like a big deal, a lot of advanced solo and ensemble repertoire include this note. It can also help facilitate higher notes.
- Closed tone holes or open tone holes: It is standard for intermediate and beyond flutes to have open holes, as this allows for more flexibility of intonation and repertoire choice. Closed holes can help younger students focus on technique and sound. I recommend getting open holes once upgrading the instrument and using plugs so that the student can gradually get used to having open tone holes.
- Split E mechanism: This mechanism makes the high E, a notoriously terrible note on flute, easier to play and less likely to crack or squeak. It also increases the overall stability and intonation of the third octave. The main drawback is that it adds to the price of the flute, and for some people, can affect the way other notes respond. I have a split E mechanism on my own flute.
- C# trill key: While only used in specific situations, this key has been invaluable in my playing. It allows for the use of more alternate fingerings and easier trills.
- D# roller key: This adds a roller between the pinky keys on the foot joint so that it’s easier to move back and forth.
- Riser: Adding a riser to the lip plate that is made of heavier metal than the head joint can help add some “oomph” to the sound. My solid silver head joint has a 14K gold riser, making it heavier and increasing the depth of sound.
- Wall thickness: Flutes can come with different wall thicknesses. These are known as standard wall, heavy wall, and thin wall. These are all based largely on personal preference and none is particularly better than the other. It’s worth noting that a heavy wall solid silver flute will be much heavier when holding than a standard wall silver-plated flute. I use a lot of air, so I like to play on heavy wall.
I currently play on a solid silver heavy wall Brannen-Cooper Brögger model flute and an original J.R. Lafin solid silver head joint with a 14K gold riser.
I am available for consultations and try-outs for new instruments at a flat rate of $30.00.
